SO, by pure
accident I managed to scramble over a couple of boats today which I had put on my list of
‘possible’ contenders yesterday. Both boats were Cornish Shrimpers. The first
one was in a broker’s yard in St Briec, a small town in Brittany ten or fifteen
miles from my home base in Plouer. It turns out that this particular broker is
the sole Shrimper importer in France and, thanks to his efforts, there is a
sizable fleet of these craft in the neighbourhood. (There's a link to the website at the foot of this page)
For those of you
unfamiliar with the Shrimper, it is a 19ft replica of the sailing fishing boats
used in Cornwall UK in the 19th century. As you can imagine it is a
beautiful characterful boat with great appeal to the traditionalist. She has a
long shallow keel, with a retractable fin, straight stem, bowsprit, wooden
mast, gaff rigged as a cutter. Yet despite her looks, she has a reputation for
a good turn of speed and a respectable performance to windward. I have never
sailed one but I imagine she’ll be exciting.
The Shrimper comes with inboard or
an outboard in a well. Most examples seem to have black or green hull with
white or cream topsides. Despite the fact that she is built in GRP, there is
plenty of wood trim to emphasise her lineage.
Sitting in the
cockpit, while she was on a road trailer (unfortunately), I was impressed by the
idea of an outboard in a well. From a low cost cruising point of view it seemed
to offer the best of both worlds. The prop is deep and protected like an
inboard, but the entire engine can be lifted out for maintenance, repair or winter
storage. Accommodation is within a cabin flush with the deck, this makes for a
reasonable working space near the mast but very little room within. Essentially
there are two berths, separated by the keel housing and a tiny forepeak, just
about large enough for a single burner gas stove. Cabin height gives you
enough room to sit without banging your head but nothing more.
Many owners have addressed the lack of accommodation by fitting
boom tents to enclose the cockpit when the vessel is at rest. On that basis, at best you would have to
describe her as a ‘weekender’ rather than a cruising boat and at 19ft, she’s a
bit too small for my requirements. My main reason for knocking her off my list
however, is her cost. Even an old second-hand example can take £10,000 out of
your pocket, so nine out of ten of these vessels will be way beyond my price range.
Or so I thought.
Later in the day, I visited Livret Marina on the river Rance close to Dinan.
There I found the saddest most neglected Shrimper I have ever seen. According
to the local boatmen, she belongs to an eighty year old Englishman who hasn’t
sailed her for years. He’s had countless offers to buy her but steadfastly
refuses on the grounds that his fate, and that of the boat, are somehow
mysteriously linked. In effect he believes that selling the boat will seal his fate and bring on his own demise.
In an ideal
world, someone would offer to maintain the boat for him, in return for
permission to sail her now and again. Unfortunately, this isn’t the right boat
for me – otherwise I’d follow up the idea.
Still, I should
take heart – there are craft around, potentially at the right price, if you’re
prepared to look. Here's one I found within my price range. It's an old French railway carriage on a raft with an antique outboard bolted on the back. Mmmm well after some consideration - no thanks.
Maybe I should take up Michael’s comment from a few weeks ago
and think about making a visit to the USA where boats seem to be cheaper.
Seaward
How exciting, I love looking at boats. Those shrimpers and Cornish crabbers go for serious amounts of money. I've been looking at Colvic watsons today, not pretty but good seagoing reputation. I thing they come in bilge keels and if no wind just use as a motor boat. On the down side I would imagine that they are quite slow boats. The value of boats in the uk looks to be very depressed at the moment. Mi wonder if the same is true of France?
ReplyDeleteWeather looks to be better in France than the UK.
RE: the relative cost of boats in Yankistan. Yes, fine traditional wooden boats are often quite reasonably priced in New England. Plastic and steel are more affordable than they are in Europe (along with everything else that can be had for money), but not "cheap". California is about midway, and my native Pacific Northwest is a disaster. The same nice Folkboat that sells for 10,000$ Yank in Maine, goes for three or four times that in Seattle. (Or Vancouver.) It's all down to the waves of wealthy "lifestyle" immigrants who started coming here from the East in the 1980s.
ReplyDeleteSadly, the Cornish Shrimper is basically absent from our water. I see where someone only started representing the company (in Chicago I think) last year. I love that boat! GRP body, wood soul. But the North American market is hostile to traditional-design fiberglass. (OK, that's not precise; the truth is most North Americans won't go near a traditional design, and most North Americans buy fiberglass. Therefore, there is little market for classy plastic here.) The minority who love the old lines tend to be purists who insist on wood on principle. Another problem for the Shrimper.
I'm one of those wood snobs, though I would happily consider a plastic boat if it looked like a boat. And the Shrimper really does that for me. But then we come to the final nail: that heart-stopping price. I could build the same lines in wood for an eighth of the 59,000$ American asking price. (For a 19' boat!!! Still reeling.)
Just an overview of the market situation over here.
Nice blog! I've lived in Quimper and Marseille; lived and breathed the real boats in the harbours.
Robin
Rusty Ring: Reflections of an Old-Timey Hermit